from my Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt pattern. I cut this pattern out last week from some 100% pre-washed cotton I found in my stash. I still have a good metre or so left so I’ll have to think of another project for it. Do any of you have a favourite tank top pattern that could use the remainder of my 100% cotton denim?
Since this is the fourth time I have cut out a Sewaholic Hollyburn, I think it is definitely one of my TNT patterns.
My skirt is coming together well. The thought of topstitching and revits and Jeans buttons makes me SMILE!
I started this skirt by making my interfaced back pockets. I just cut a large rectangle shape, as the Hollyburn didn’t have a pattern piece for this. I precisely measured for my angled corners. I marked the centre point of the bottom with my Chaco liner and I measured two inches up on each side and made marks there too.
Here my corners are ready to be cut off at the marks.
I zig zagged the edges to prevent fraying and sewed down a 1 inch flap at the top, which I turned and pressed. I then pressed a 1/2 ” hem all around the four sides.
Pressing the pockets made them so sturdy, they could quite possibly stand up on their own. I love pressing fabric to mold it into a shape you desire!
I am so persnickety that I lie my finished pockets on top of each other every which way to double check that they are EXACTLY the same shape and size.
I drew and sewed a few trial designs for my back pockets on scrap fabric, before making a decision on which to use. Drawing the first line on with my Chaco liner (corner to corner) helped ensure that the first line and all that followed would be very straight. I used my 1/4″ seam foot to topstitch my pocket design.
My finished back pocket design – simple, but I love it!
There are four seams on my skirt, all sewn on the diagonal – I want to make them all flat felled seams. I sewed the front and back centre seams first. I used a strip of interfacing to stabilize the seam. If I wasn’t so lazy, I would have looked for my rotary cutter and cut uniform, straight strips of interfacing!
Pressing is important. First I pressed the seam open. Then I carefully cut one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4 inch.
Then I pressed the wider seam allowance over the narrower one.
I tucked the wider seam allowance under the narrower one and pressed again.
I sewed it down with my 1/4 ” seam foot and my topstitching thread.
Now on to the next steps!
Are you a fan of topstitching like me? Do you have any tips to share?
Happy Sewing!
v jealous of your fantastic top stitching and neat finish – looking forward to seeing the finished piece
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well thank you very much! I’m almost done.
LikeLike
Ooo, someone else who likes top-stitching! I think this very much depends on your machine as to whether you like it or not. My old Singer, doesn’t mind top-stitch thread and it never causes me any pain, but I know there are plenty of machines that really hate top-stitch thread. Love your pocket design – simple but effective.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s true! It does depend on the machine a lot. My last machine couldn’t sew proper button holes. This is a pretty good machine.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I like top stitching too – but I have an old Singer machine which turns out beautiful stitching no matter what. That helps.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes it does. Funny how some of the newer ones with all their fancy stitches just can’t make it sometimes!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love top stitching, love that pocket detail. It’s very effective. I prefer to topstitch on the right side of the fabric so i know how the outside finished side looks. However your looks even anyway. Great job
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks! It might be hard to tell from the photos but I do topstitching on the right side. I use the topstitching thread on top and the bobbin has regular thread in it. It makes it run more smoothly through my machine and I find topstitching thread to be expensive so I’m not using it on the top and the bottom. I do like using my 1/4″ and edge sewing feet to help with the straight lines! 😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
Good grief. Did you press underneath then flip over and sew!!! Needed to have another look! Ok, so I would do it all from the front! That’s pretty tricky top stitching that you do! Again, looks great.
LikeLiked by 1 person
🤔 umm… Yes, I fold and press the seam from the wrong side, underneath. Then I pin it and flip it over and sew the topstitching from the right side. It’s just the way I learned BUT if you have a different way, I’d love to see it! Post it when you have a chance. 😃
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s brilliantly sewn if you do it that way. I would just do it in reverse and press under and stitch all on the top side. I’m sure that there must be yet another way. If i find one I’ll let you know. It’s going to be a lovely skirt, looking forward to seeing it finished. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can’t claim “brilliantly sewn” – that’s just the way I learned how to do it. Can’t remember who or where (yes I’m THAT old!) I just sew the seam, press and pin it the way I want it to look and then topstitch the right side. I sure hope I haven’t confused anyone!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hey I’m even older. As we both now it’s good to see new or other ways of doing one thing. In my mind, you’ve sewn the seam blind, if you see what I mean, and that’s really tricky!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
😄👍
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lovely sewing on this skirt! Must admit flat-felled seams aren’t in my repertoire at this time. But if I should ever need ’em, this is a marvelous tutorial – thank you!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you very much. There are only a few uses for me for flat felled seams, so you’re probably not missing out on anything!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! Grateful to know I can take it off the guilt-trip list. 😘 Lol!
LikeLiked by 1 person
😂
LikeLike
This is gonna look so cool! I just love your pockets! I love topstitching too, not a top stitching tip, but for pressing – I couldn’t live without my clapper!! It just makes everything so crisp and flat 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh yes! I used my clapper on my pockets and then totally forgot about it with my seams. Sometimes my need to finish a project and wear it takes over from my need to do a good job! 😂
LikeLiked by 2 people
I really like the diagonal pattern on the pocket that you did with the red thread. Your pockets are perfect and that seam is so clean. 👍👏👏
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! I enjoyed doing it!
LikeLike
Neat tutorial here! I need to keep it for reference. The pocket stitching is very nice, awaiting the reveal of the finished skirt.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! My sewing has been going slow here but it’s almost finished!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Slow going here, too, Linda. 😦
LikeLiked by 1 person
You are doing an amazing job on the skirt, can’t wait to see the final results. I have always been nervous to try sewing with denim, your post is inspiring me to face my fear. Cheers, Michele
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you. This denim is quite light. I couldn’t make a pair of jeans with it, perhaps a shirt. So sewing a light denim like this is no different than any other woven.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for the tip about using lighter denim. Happy sewing, Cheers, Michele
LikeLiked by 1 person
👍😀
LikeLike
I love the non traditional topstitching colour! I’m working on a pair of red jeans with silver and grey topstitching and I think it looks fab!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh that would be cool – I’m looking forward to seeing it. I am behind on my reading – family things – but I shall catch up soon, hopefully I will see your jeans soon too – red, huh? Fantastic!
LikeLike
Between my procrastination (I’ve never made real trousers, never mind jeans before) and general loss of sew-jo they haven’t been finished or blogged yet. Hopefully I’ll get some work done soon and put some pics on twitter or instagram in the meantime……I’m going to do a quick afternoon project when the jeans are done….I’m no fan of topstitching!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well it’s important to do the projects and sewing that you enjoy doing! Have fun!
LikeLike
Love those fancy pockets! Can’t wait to see the finished product!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! I think the pockets are my favourite thing. Too bad I couldn’t make a living making pockets!
LikeLike
Ooooh this does look gratifying! How do you do the rivets? Do you have a special tool or do you do some old-fashioned hammering? I have never done any, although my daughter did some grommets on a costume recently, the hammering method. I am intimidated…
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh the rivits are coming yet! I use cement stairs, a block of wood a rivit holder and a hammer and I bash away – so satisfying! This fabric is light though so it shouldn’t be a problem – not as much bashing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh, this is going to look fabulous! I do the same thing with pockets to make sure they match perfectly..love your topstitched design too!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! Funny how I can get obsessive about pockets and then not cut interfacing strips with a rotary cutter (straighter)!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can totally relate 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I love this, and can’t wait to see the finished skirt. Your topstitching is awesome!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you!
LikeLike
So far, it is beautiful! The pockets are so cool!! I don’t mind topstitching (or flat felled seams, for that matter–they always look so clean and professional when done well), but haven’t had tons of occasions to do it yet. (But with more jeans on my to-sew list, that will change!) It really does add an extra touch to a garment, so I can see why you love the look. =)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! Every little bit makes for a more professional looking garment. I will be watching out for your jeans when you can get to them!
LikeLiked by 1 person