Like before, again I had the help of a Craftsy course – this time Pants Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina and her Vogue Pattern 2948. I tried the pattern twice, first as is, with the centre front and back seams, and the second time without the centre front and back seams, making a one piece front and a one piece back. I had different results with both.
I used my cotton gingham fabric again, although it was a bit stiff to be used as pants material. I hope to make any other pants using this technique/pattern with a fabric that has a better drape.
I started by transferring my specific measurements onto the Fitting Shell Pattern tracings I had made, making adjustments as I went along. I ended up with sloper pieces with no seam allowances, ease, etc. and retraced those sloper pieces again adding seam allowances and an extra 2″ of fit insurance at the sides.
Front centre and side pieces: slopers on the right and Fitting Shell Pattern on the left.
Back centre and side pieces: slopers on the right and Fitting Shell Pattern on the left.
Let me just say, the first time I sewed myself a pair of pants was Grade 8. I am certainly not going to tell you how long ago that was, but let’s just say they were polyester, dark pink, hipster bell bottoms. That was the first time I made myself pants… and the last! Even though I sewed them up perfectly according to the pattern pieces, they were the most uncomfortable pants I have ever worn.
After all these years, I have decided to try sewing myself pants again, resulting in the ugliest pair of pants I have ever made, but the most comfortable!
Front, side and back views of my first muslin with the centre front and back seams included.
Next I combined my two front pieces to make one pattern piece, adding in a dart at the gap in the waist line and retraced it. I did the same with my two back pieces. I sewed my pants up in my gingham cotton again.
Again another ugly, comfortable pair of pants, this pair slightly less wrinkled. I should compare the two and see exactly where the differences are in the measurements. Indeed I should compare these two with a pair of RTW jeans and then see where the differences are!
Front, side and back views of my second muslin without the centre front and back seams.
I have the option yet of lengthening the crotch seam and shortening the inseam to remove some of the wrinkles but I am not sure if that would do the trick. Worth playing around with though! Any comments? Suggestions?
There are lots of projects on my sewing table. My next project with these Fitting Shell Patterns is a couple of pairs of jeans, which should be tighter than this since they have some stretch to them, and some dress pants, which should be looser and will have a better drape to the fabric. I also have a cardigan and a vintage dress to cut out still!
Until then, you might find me lounging around the house in the ugliest, but most comfortable, pants I have ever had the pleasure of wearing! 🙂
PS You might notice that I did not make full length pants, but rather long shorts. I was more concerned with the fitting difficulties above my knees, than below my knees!