What I did on my summer vacation. (Part II)

… just a hint … it involved a LOT of butt gazing!

The first (and last) time I sewed myself a pair of pants (trousers) was when I was in grade 8.  It was a tunic top and hipster/bell bottom pants, sort of like this pattern, made of PINK 100% polyester (the heavy stuff).

Those pants either “goosed” me when I walked or gave me “plumber’s crack” when I sat down.  I was at least lucky that the tunic top covered all my mistakes!

This is my first year in the “RTW fast” and I have stuck to it so far and have not purchased anything that I could sew for myself.  I am running out of pants for work though and the weather will soon turn to rain.  Of all the pants I own, I have only one pair that I actually like… they are my best fitting…

Of course, I am very hesitant to make pants after my grade 8 attempt.  But if this is how my RTW fits, how bad can I do?  So I made sure I did my research… hence the “butt gazing”!  I have already watched the Craftsy course, “Pant Fitting Techniques” with Sandra Betzina and used her pattern, Vogue V2948, for my black capris jeans and my blue jeans.

I have already drafted two pants muslins, using this Craftsy course and Vogue pattern.

When I first posted these muslins, Leila of Grow Your Own Clothes suggested I lower the crotch point.  I have the book “Pattern Fitting with Confidence” by Nancy Zieman, which suggested the same.  I have also looked up the excellent Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet.  It advised me how to lower my crotch curve and adjust for a flat butt.

I have looked on-line at the most tailored RTW and on the streets at many fabric clad butts (more butt gazing) to discover what is a “good” fitting pair of pants – keeping in mind that if all the wrinkles are gone, I won’t be able to sit down!

When I got up the nerve, I grabbed an old bed sheet and after a lot of flapping and cutting on the family room floor – very entertaining for the cats… I thought Sophie was going to hunt me down and eat me at one point – I had my muslin cut out.

My DH, Mr. Green Thumb, was curious at one point and asked “What are you making?”  “Pants” I say.  “Oh!” he says with a pause “… you’re not going to wear those outside the house… are you?”  I should have told him “Yes, they’re the newest style!  🙂

Vogue V2948 is a great pattern for making alterations as it is a princess seam pant and has 4 seams per leg to give more options for adjustment.  I sewed my muslin pant legs together so quickly, I mistakenly made TWO legs exactly the same – Heck with it, I turned one leg out and sewed them together at the crotch, with the one leg showing the seam allowances!

I sewed the crotch seam last because I just knew that was the one that would need the most adjustment, unpicking and sewing.  Then after trying them on, and sewing adjustments, and trying them on, and sewing adjustments, I figured there must be an easier way to understand what was really happening to the fit when I sewed something tighter or looser, so I set up my tripod and every time I sewed a seam I took a photo of myself (and again, more butt gazing).  By the time my muslin was finished I had examined 80 photos, probably 30 of them of my butt!

Here’s my progression – the butt view was the biggest work:

Before

After

Before

After

Before

After – Just ignore the leg with the stupid seam allowances showing!

After the final adjustments were made, I realized that I have never worn anything so comfortable in handmade or RTW!  An important lesson learned, if your clothes fit properly, whether you’re a size extra small or extra large, you feel marvellous!

I made sure to write my adjustments on my muslin.  I also adjusted my pattern pieces again, still leaving 1 inch seam allowances for wiggle room in future pant styles.

Back with lowered crotch curve and adjustments to the back centre seam for “flat butt”

Front with lowered crotch curve

I have not been looking forward to this project – after all I didn’t do so well with it in grade 8!  Now I can’t believe that I am actually looking forward to doing it all over again.  I’ve already cut out more fabrics.

For me, the best part of sewing is learning something new, and talking about it with you.  What new techniques have you learned this year?

Happy Sewing!