McCall’s M7323 – In Stripes!

I’ve had this striped fabric in my stash since my visit to my sister a summer or two ago.  It’s a heavier weight knit than what I usually have and I quite like it.  The red stripe is quite bright too, which brings the grey, blue and black to life for me.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

I had always planned to make this skirt, Vogue 1292, a “Today’s Fit” by Sandra Betzina, and I purchased this striped fabric for that sole purpose.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

But you might already know from personal experience how easy it is to get led astray by fabrics and patterns.

Just look at this lady’s smiling face, she is so happy and she looks so cute in her new me-made top. I love the right angled stripes! I want a top like her’s!

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

So I changed my plans – McCall’s M7323.  It didn’t give me a smiley face like her’s though – not in the beginning at least.

I spent a few hours last Sunday afternoon, planning my pattern layout and staring at my fabric.  In fabric design (stripes, plaids, etc.), there are horizontal and vertical repeats (number of inches before the pattern starts again on the fabric), and even/balanced patterns (stripes are equal width, equal distance apart) and uneven/unbalanced patterns (stripes and the spaces between them are not equal).

If it isn’t obvious to the eye, the trick to discovering if your stripes or plaids are even, or balanced, is to fold your fabric edge at a 45 degree angle and see if the stripe (or plaid) balance continues smoothly and uninterrupted.  When I folded my fabric 45 degrees to check the balance of the fabric, it was disrupted/uneven.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

I know when matching stripes you must:

A. Place your first piece on your fabric on grain and hopefully on stripe too. Although some fabrics are sloppy and the stripes do not run on grain! Trace the stripes on to your pattern piece from the fabric below. Cut your first piece. Place this pattern piece for a second cut, on grain, line up the drawn stripes with the fabric stripes and cut an exact copy. Don’t forget you might need a mirror image though, if so, flip you pattern piece over and do the same.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!
I have joined the front top and front bottom of my pattern pieces to demonstrate this.

B. Another way is to cut the usual two layers at a time with pinned fabric. I pin at every stripe through both layers on the selvage and the other edge, checking constantly that I am lining both layers up correctly. I have seen some sewists use Wonder Tape instead of pins but that is a lot of waste, in my opinion. Then I place and cut my pattern piece.  I still trace the stripes on the pattern pieces so I can match up the fronts and the backs, etc.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!
Pins at the stripes.

Now with this fabric, I quickly realized that not only were my stripes unbalanced but my front bottom piece would be cut with the stripes at right angles, so I tried a few options.  The red stripe stood out the most, so … let’s try matching it!

Top red stripe matching.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Top and bottom red stripes matching.  Unfortunately I had to put my fabric slightly off grain to match these two stripes and not at a 45 degree angle.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Middle stripe meeting at right angles.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

So as I am plotting and planning, Mr Greenthumb walks through the kitchen, notices me laying out my pattern pieces (still) and says:

“You’ll never match those stripes, they aren’t the same width.”

Me: “Yes, I know!” … spoken rather shortly!

So I quickly decide that my time is up.  I have decided on my final fabric placement.  These stripes are not going to match, so I pick the best unmatched option – middle red stripe matching at right angles.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

To double check I folded up the seam allowance on my front top piece and cut off the seam allowance on my front bottom pattern piece, to exactly match up my two pieces.  I didn’t forget to add the seam allowance back on when I was cutting out my front bottom piece.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

How did it work out?  I’m a smiling lady too!

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Yes, it’s a Simon-photobomb.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

I’m examining all the cat hair I have on my top already.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Simon’s hanging around because he thinks he can go outside.

Nice dress!  Thanks, I made it!!

Funny thing about this pattern … it’s almost identical to Vogue 9107, which I have sewn up already here.

Do you have any “stripe (or plaid) matching” tips that you would like to share with us?

Happy Easter! and Happy Sewing!

STASH BUSTING WITH THIS PROJECT?  1.8 metres (136.7 metres remaining!)

27 thoughts on “McCall’s M7323 – In Stripes!

  1. I think you did an amazing job placing those stripes. I’d have given up and gone for totally random.

    1. Thanks! I kept thinking that there is nothing wrong with random. I’ve seen RTW that should match, unmatched. I just though if I was making it myself I could at least get one stripe to go the way that I wanted. In others words, I’m stubborn!

  2. Love it! I am a rebel and tend to let stripe-matching sort itself out I’m afraid- life’s too short lol This looks great, and of your three options, you definitely went with the best to my eye. Nice top, I do love these asymmetrical things, they look cool, are fun to wear, and [for my purposes] blur my lumpy bits very nicely!
    Now you need to buy more stripes to make that skirt though…

    1. Thanks! You have had a lovely selection of asymmetrical tops lately yourself! All nicely done! They are kind to my lumpy bits too! I have some fabric leftover, but not enough for a skirt – perhaps I’ll be making an asymmetrical colour blocked skirt in the future?

      1. sounds like a plan

  3. Super photos and testing and you ended up with a very custom top!!! Thank you for sharing the process and for selecting the best option!

    1. Thank you for your kind words, Mrs Mole!

  4. Brilliant Linda! I think you worked that out nicely. The red stands out and it makes sense to match it. Loving the asymmetry here.

    1. Thanks Diane! I’m searching my fabric stash for my next project now. I have some stripes leftover, I wonder if an asymmetrical skirt is next? I’d have to colour block it with black or red or something though? 🤔

  5. I think you worked out the best possible stripe layout. It looks great!

    1. Thank you! It was a lot of head scratching 🤔 but I’m happy with it!

  6. Linda you have the patience of a saint but it was well worth the effort. The top looks great!

    1. Thank you! 😐 patience with sewing…but not everyone and everything! 😂

  7. I used to hate trying to match stripes. The result, because I lacked the patience, I never bought anymore stripes. Problem solved. The top looks beautiful and Simon, well, he is his usual furry little self.

    1. Ha Ha! Yes, that way works too!

  8. So here’s the thing, I wouldn’t have noticed the different stripes. I would have thought that was the pattern. I don’t know how you did it, by the time I got to the third picture my eyes were going wonky. I like stripes and I like your shirt. It’s not black. 😉

    1. Haha! Yes some things make my eyes wonky, but I can look at fabric for HOURS! I am glad it’s not black, that seems to be all I am wearing nowadays!

  9. What a beautiful top and your non-matching, stripe matching is lovely. I would have gone nuts trying to work this one out. Xx

    1. Thank you! Ah well! Some things I have endless patience with! 😍

  10. Wow! I love this combination of stripes! Beautiful top!

    1. Thanks! It’s a nice fabric, different design and heavier than usual.

  11. You did an amazing stripe playing job. Chapeau.

    1. Thank you! It took a bit of thought but I’m really happy with it!

  12. As a person who adores stripes, this top ticks all the boxes for me. You did really well making these difficult stripes work.

    1. Thanks Sue! How’s your dyed fabric coming along? I hope I haven’t missed anything!

      1. Dyed fabric not yet made up. I’ve been engaged in a large project so the selfish sewing has been a bit thin on the ground!

        1. Nice to know I haven’t missed anything! Good luck with your other project!

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