Sandra Betzina Today's Fit

It really is BLACK!

Honestly, why is BLACK so difficult to photograph?  It must just suck in all the light around it!  Anyway…

I have finished my 4th pair of pants, black ones, after spending extensive time with the muslin and making three pairs after that.  I thought my blue pair was my favourite – best fitting and lovely fabric.  Those were made with Horizon Suiting, 100% polyester.  (I actually managed to find and buy more Horizon Suiting in a Navy Blue colour.  Whoopie!)  I think these black pants have taken their place though.  Although in trying to photograph the black, that might not come across!

For quite a while now I have been using what I learned in the Craftsy courses:  “Pant Fitting Techniques” by Sandra Betzina and “One pattern, Many Looks: Pants” by Kathy Ruddy;  and I have been using Vogue pattern V2948.  This time my black fabric was Simcoe Stretch Suiting, 65% polyester, 35% rayon.  It feels lovely to the touch and fits so well!

I sewed my princess seams together on my front and back pant legs.  Then I made my pocket flaps and pockets on my front pant legs.

I pinned my pocket facing on my pants front – right side together, measuring down the side seam 4″ and marking.
I sewed the two pieces together along the top from my princess seam to the side seam and 4″ down the side seam.
I turned the pocket facing to the inside and pinned and pressed what will be the pocket flap.
On the inside I folded the pocket facing over to the side seam to form my inside pocket.
I pinned my pocket facing in place.
I sewed the side seam of the pants front and the pocket facing together;  and the bottom of the inside pocket facing.
The pocket flap is folded down and ironed.

Waistband and waistband facing interfaced, sewed together and sewed on to my pants.

I used seam tape when sewing together my waistband and waistband facing. Then I under stitched my waistband facing.

Now for my invisible zipper.

I ironed my invisible zipper open and “basted” it in place with my Wonder Tape.
Sewed it on close, but not too close, with my favourite zipper foot.
I Wonder Taped the other side of the invisible zipper on. Remembering to mark where my waistband seam should meet on my zipper. They must line up.
I sewed on the other side of my invisible zipper.
I forgot to get a photo but next I sewed the ends of my invisible zipper down on to my seam allowances so my zipper would lie flat and then sewed around my crotch seam.

 

My pocket flap buttons.

I found in my stash these silver and black buttons to sew on my pocket flaps. Oh yes, can’t forget to sew bias tape on the bottom of the waistband to finish it off nicely.
Finished.

 

ALL DONE!

Side.
Back… with a Photobombing Simon.
and Front.

In addition to having a lovely pair of black pants to wear now, I also have a NEW TOY!  When pressing, I seem to have a penchant for scorching and burning my fabric and covering my iron with interfacing goo.  So I bought and used happily – until it turned brown and shapeless – a Silk Organza Press Cloth.  Then I saw this. A NEW TOY!  A Teflon Iron Shoe.  So far, so good!  No scorching, burning, or sticking goo to my iron.  If you are looking for one I have seen them for as low as $10.00.

 

Have you brought home any NEW TOYS lately?

Happy Sewing!

40 Responses to “It really is BLACK!”

  1. corrineappleby Avatar
    corrineappleby

    These look great! I really admire your persistence! 2016 is the year for me making trousers I’ve decided.

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thanks! I’ll keep my eye out for your’s! I’m always looking for new tips.

  2. jennystitched Avatar

    Great trousers – I really need to make some staples like this for my wardrobe! My new toy is an overlocker 😀

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thanks! It took me most of my RTW FAST year to get up the nerve to learn how to do the fitting. I might not be a pro at it, but at least I found it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be! A new over locker – now that would be a cool new toy! 👍

  3. Thimberlina Avatar

    More trousers! You’ve proper mastered this! I keep looking at my pattern that you sent me but keep wondering if the front seams would be uncomfortable??

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      It looks like it would be doesn’t it. After I am happy with them, I serge the seams which makes the front ones small and unnoticeable. I am sure you wouldn’t want any bulk there. And if you do choose to topstitch the front princess seam, that would make it flat and comfortable too. I do notice in her class she mentions pinning the two front pattern pieces together and where they don’t meet, at the top, making a small dart. But then again, that would probably make it like any other pants pattern, I guess! 😄

  4. Rose Avatar
    Rose

    Pants look great. I find that “purchasing” pants is always very difficult. The people do “sizing” of clothing don’t seem to understand that there is a body involved and we are not all built like cut out dolls that you hook cut out clothes on. Nice to see that Simon took advantage of the photo op. Happy sewing.

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thank you, and I agree about store bought. Even on a bad day I can make a better fit than store bought! Oh you noticed Simon. I saw him and then forgot about him. At the time I almost stepped on him about three times. Then he was all over my tripod! Thanks for reading and commenting!

  5. navybluethreads Avatar

    You’re doing so well on your trousers mission, very impressed! No new toys, but hoping to get some for Christmas 🙂

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thank you! Good idea! I shall have to make a list for Christmas!!!!’

  6. mrsmole Avatar

    Great pants and super photos too! I bought a cover for my new iron, not Teflon but a metal coated one that hooks on the same way with a wire band. Your pockets are just so cute…if they were mine, I’d for sure be catching them on drawer handles and yanking myself in all directions with those buttons flying!

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thank you! I didn’t know about the metal cover, I will have to keep my eyes open for that one too! I would be wearing these to work usually, and all I do there is sit all day. It’s rings and bracelets that I get caught on everything… And break!

  7. jendavismiller Avatar

    These are lovely pants! And I like how you finished your waistband….I’ll remember the tip. I had an iron shoe once, but felt like the iron was never hot enough? But it was certainly well protected.

    New toys? Not yet. But oh, I do have an ever-growing list!

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thank you! I think my problem is probably that my iron is always too hot! I tend to not pay attention! Amazing how many sewing gizmos there are, isn’t it?

  8. Miss J Avatar

    Looks great! Excellent fit. Thanks for posting.
    I’m still pressing with my silk organza, hope it holds up.
    How did you find Sandra Betzina pants fitting class?

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Thank you! I did like her course. I learned a lot from it and still refer back to her courses. It is so much easier for me to take on line courses then actually go to a class. Her personality is casual and relaxed and I like her insistence to not panic if you make a mistake, as we all do!

  9. jvandervlugt Avatar

    A shoe for your iron, that’s pretty cool. The pants look great. So important to have pants/slacks that fit well and feel good. Way to go.

    New toys? Hmmm. I’m eyeing another set of colour pencils. 😊

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Another set? Christmas is coming you know…

  10. Linda Wilson Avatar

    New favourite trousers! Great! Sometimes my black is grey but it shows up the details!!! The teflon iron shoe is really good, but eventually the tip cracks, so inspect it regularly before it catches on a piece of fine fabric!?

    1. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! Avatar

      Oh! Didn’t know that! Thanks for the tip! 😂 No pun intended!