Every time I make a pair of pants (trousers) for myself I first take a look at this photo. No, I did not make these. This is how RTW (ready to wear) fits on my body – and this is the right size. Just awful! This photo reminds me that no matter how little or how much work it is or how good or bad it turns out, me-made is always going to be better than this.
I have cut out three pairs of pants so far and last Tuesday I finished the first pair – the chocolate brown ones. I used McCalls M6901 (a Palmer/Pletsch pattern). I didn’t use to like Palmer/Pletsch patterns – basically because they just went on and on, page after page of instruction to which I never paid any attention. Silly me!
I had previously made a muslin and after some work on it, I think I got the fit down. I had a bit of a delay in finishing my pants though because I decided to hand sew the waistband down and the hems up. Unfortunately my right thumb joint decided I had done enough hand sewing before I got half way through the job and I had to spread it out over a few days. I think my goal in future sewing projects is going to be use my sewing machine more, and hand sew less.
Now this is where the Photography comes in. I love taking photos for my blog, but even better I love taking photos to check fit. Photos really help! I have no other way of seeing how my garment looks in the front and back. So I tried on my pants to check if I had pinned up the hems to the right length, and no, my photos showed they dragged and tangled on my shoes.
But just imagine my distress as I looked at the other shots I had taken – side and back views. Fine in the front, baggy in the back.
Fine in the front, baggy in the back. (Simon even thinks so.)
OMG!
Too much fabric. I though I had gotten rid of this! Pulling on the side seams gave me a clue.
But it was definitely time to pull out my favourite book. I tell you if they included a pants pattern with this book – you would never have to buy another pants pattern or instructions again!
I checked out their pages and discovered that I should take the excess fabric out of the side seams (surprise, surprise) and deepen the centre back seam/the crotch seam. I also took a bit out of the inseams, just in the thigh area.
It also looks like my right hip is higher than the other, but that can be adjusted too!
More alterations were done and more photos taken, the front is still fine – my hems are still too long though and still get tangled in my shoes.
The back is much better – my right side is still being pulled to my high hip – that has to be fixed.
My most useful resources when fitting pants? My research and photos … and my patience! These changes will be transferred to my pattern pieces to help with my next two pairs.
What’s your most useful resource – a book? website? a sewing tool?
Happy Sewing!
Oh yes! This is my second garment in my #2017makenine Challenge. And these pants were sewn on Amber, my Singer 421G. She did good! Oh! I just noticed this is blog post #200 – thank you for your support and comments. I love comments!
52 Responses to “Photos really help!”
Well. It seems that book is a must-have! Will be starting pants soon (jogger style) and am rather terrified. I love the idea of photos – you’re right, they really help! Am very impressive with your persistence and love seeing all your progress photos. Good job!
Thank you! I look forward to seeing your progress too. I need some more jogger style pants. I only have two pair left in good shape that I like. I’ll have to come to you for advice when the time comes!
I love this book! It’s my bible. And now I know which alterations are just standard for me: deepen rear crotch seam, take in inseams, add 0.5cm on right hip. It’s made it all so much easier. And yes, the camera does not lie!
I’ve only just started with this book and I’m really learning a lot. Actually the more I read and think about it, the more it all makes sense!
Great job fitting these! I agree that photos are useful but it can be stressful to look at them when we know we’ll be finding fitting issues 😉
I think we got a circle of inspiration going. Now I want to make another pair of pants!
Well I’m looking forward to seeing them when you do!
Great post. It covers a lot of my recent pant-fitting issues. I think I may need that book…
It’s definitely complete – how to fit and construct pants. Was it your blog I was reading last night where the sewist was having the exact fitting issues I was, and was saying she will have to do this and that… I commented on it. I will have to go check out your blog and see how your pants and coming along. I think it is great that we can share our “troubles” and our solutions! Thank you!
Love your dedication to getting them exactly how you want them!
Thank you! I enjoy learning the “ins and outs”!
I like the starting photo with the rtw one, – its easy to forget that the perfect fit for trousers is a lot trickier as there are so many variables and buying off the rack has its own woes.
i made up a good block a while back and it made all the difference and even then pinning the excess and adjust the curve gave it it the perfect fit but it did take a while to figure! the only other issue is to remember that different fabrics give different results even when your block is correct (I try and give a better seam allowance for tight weave no stretch so I can adjust on first fit)
I love looking at the RTW photo – it reminds me how bad it can really get! Every adjustment is a step in the right direction. Thanks for the valuable advice. My other two pairs have a little bit more give to them, so we shall see what happens!
Oh yes! I went shopping with a friend last week. She was looking for dress pants and getting stressed out by the discrepancies between sizes and the endless search for a decently fitting pair…
All this sewing has made me somewhat zen, I guess, because I was able to actually be helpful. I told her that the sizes were pretty meaningless because the brands didn’t seem to be considering fabric stretch before slapping a size on (so she ended up getting two not-adjacent sizes in different pairs of pants from the same company).
And I was quietly contemplating how brands try to accommodate different body types by offering pants with a different target “derriere size” within one collection. For the non-sewing customer, sadly, that probably looks like no pair fits just right.
Still, one constant I observed is low-rise pants still dominate. I think that’s probably because of fabric savings. They’ve always been the bane of my existence.
Shopping for clothes takes on new meaning when you can sew. I usually consider it research for future projects and don’t buy anything! I feel so uncomfortable in low rise – like they are going to fall off if I bend at the middle!
We do something in common! We both take photos of projects we’re working on to see any errors. I’m not a Sewist but taking photos of my drawings before I add colour helps me see if there are errors. I don’t understand how it works but it does!
Your pants look so much better than the RTW. Yes, I could see how the handsewing would be hard on the finger joints. Good job.
That’s interesting – maybe you’re looking at your projects with “new eyes” when you photograph? You do lovely work with your drawings. Whatever you are doing keep it up!
Admire your persistence. I about gave up on pants — except for stretchy jogger types.
Ah well, I am persistent/stubborn! I have to make some joggers too someday. Maybe I’ll stop on by your blog and you can show me! Ever since I said I would “buy no more” I seem to be playing catch up – need pants, need tops, need, need, need. I should just quit my job and sew… oops, then there would be no money for sewing! 🙂
You really have nearly nailed that fit! I look forward to following your adventures with the next couple of pairs.
Thank you, Sue! Hopefully each pair will be better than the last!
You trousers look great and that looks like such a useful book. I have never used a PP pattern either but I do have their legendary wrap dress one. They seem to design some very useful staples. Photo fitting seems like a great tool. Xx
Thank you! I’m sure there are lots of great resources out there, in book form, online, or ??? I seriously did not like PP patterns before. I got the book first, then found this pants pattern in my stash. I should go back and see what other patterns of their’s I have in my stash. I always though the patterns had too many instructions… little did I know, if I had read them, I might have learned something about fitting too!