Every time I make a pair of pants (trousers) for myself I first take a look at this photo. No, I did not make these. This is how RTW (ready to wear) fits on my body – and this is the right size. Just awful! This photo reminds me that no matter how little or how much work it is or how good or bad it turns out, me-made is always going to be better than this.
I have cut out three pairs of pants so far and last Tuesday I finished the first pair – the chocolate brown ones. I used McCalls M6901 (a Palmer/Pletsch pattern). I didn’t use to like Palmer/Pletsch patterns – basically because they just went on and on, page after page of instruction to which I never paid any attention. Silly me!
I had previously made a muslin and after some work on it, I think I got the fit down. I had a bit of a delay in finishing my pants though because I decided to hand sew the waistband down and the hems up. Unfortunately my right thumb joint decided I had done enough hand sewing before I got half way through the job and I had to spread it out over a few days. I think my goal in future sewing projects is going to be use my sewing machine more, and hand sew less.
Now this is where the Photography comes in. I love taking photos for my blog, but even better I love taking photos to check fit. Photos really help! I have no other way of seeing how my garment looks in the front and back. So I tried on my pants to check if I had pinned up the hems to the right length, and no, my photos showed they dragged and tangled on my shoes.
But just imagine my distress as I looked at the other shots I had taken – side and back views. Fine in the front, baggy in the back.
Fine in the front, baggy in the back. (Simon even thinks so.)
Too much fabric. I though I had gotten rid of this! Pulling on the side seams gave me a clue.
But it was definitely time to pull out my favourite book. I tell you if they included a pants pattern with this book – you would never have to buy another pants pattern or instructions again!
I checked out their pages and discovered that I should take the excess fabric out of the side seams (surprise, surprise) and deepen the centre back seam/the crotch seam. I also took a bit out of the inseams, just in the thigh area.
It also looks like my right hip is higher than the other, but that can be adjusted too!
More alterations were done and more photos taken, the front is still fine – my hems are still too long though and still get tangled in my shoes.
The back is much better – my right side is still being pulled to my high hip – that has to be fixed.
My most useful resources when fitting pants? My research and photos … and my patience! These changes will be transferred to my pattern pieces to help with my next two pairs.
What’s your most useful resource – a book? website? a sewing tool?
Oh yes! This is my second garment in my #2017makenine Challenge. And these pants were sewn on Amber, my Singer 421G. She did good! Oh! I just noticed this is blog post #200 – thank you for your support and comments. I love comments!