In a panic for pants (trousers)!

Hello again!  Here I am!  The real thing!

My RTW Fast year is close to ending and I am still filling in the gaps in my handmade wardrobe.  There is still time left to sew up some pants for myself though – I would love to have a pair of black, blue and brown pants suitable for work.

So to recap… You’ve seen my pattern, Vogue V2948.  It has princess seams front and back and a curved waistband.  It is fantastic for alterations…

And you’ve heard about the Craftsy course, Pant Fitting Techniques with Sandra Betzina, that helped me with my fitting and sewing my muslin

I have already cut out a few fabric choices using the altered pattern I made from my muslin…

That certainly looks like a few ambitious piles of fabric.  Let’s start with the brown fabric.  67% polyester/30% rayon/3% spandex, very soft, not as stretchy as some of my polyester fabrics, but with a bit of stretch.  It actually reminded me of a heavy yoga pant fabric – maybe not suitable for work pants?  We shall see.

So this is the front of my pants, without any alterations.  You might notice  that I thought I would be clever and sew piping in the front princess seams.  Well I cut the piping out right away, it pulled and did all sorts of awful things to this slightly stretchy fabric.  You can really see it on the left leg here…

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Back view, not any better.  My pants really need some more fitting.  I also need to pluck off that wad of white thread that I am carrying around on my leg!

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You might notice the invisible zipper insertion?  It has been a while since I have done an invisible zipper and I don’t have an invisible zipper foot to use, but this is how I did it…  (If you click the photo words appear!)

Sandra Betzina suggested sewing a tab inside of your pants at the top to make a snap, button or hook closure.  This is so the zipper will last longer and be easier to zip up.  I thought I would give it a try.

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How the tab looks from the outside, if the zip is unzipped.  This brown colour photographed in so many different shades.  I think this might be the most realistic colour shot.

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Under stitching the top edge of my waistband, on the inside, to keep it in place.  I also have seam tape sewn inside the top edge of my waistband to prevent my waistband from stretching out.

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And my finished pants, with my “Jungle January” top.  (No headshots today – sorry – my hair stylist and make up artist couldn’t make the shoot!)

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Here’s an overexposed shot of the back of my pants.  Deliberately done so I could see how my fitting went.  Not too baggy, creases at the knees – that’s acceptable to me.  A bit too many creases/wrinkles under the butt.  Comfortable enough to sit.  All you helpful readers… any further advice out there on the fit, or correcting it?

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I keep looking at my RTW pants (below) and am happy I can sew my own pants now.

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Well considering how much more stretchy this brown polyester fabric was than my cotton muslin, I’m happy with the result.  Now on to the black pair.  I’ll have to think of an alteration in the style for them so I don’t have four pairs of pants in all the same style!

Thanks for reading!  And please let me know what you’re working on, I love talking about sewing!

Until next time, Happy Sewing!

31 thoughts on “In a panic for pants (trousers)!

  1. I love “trousers” (the word and the item of clothing). I have a very proper friend who wears “trousers” not “pants” and carries a “handbag” not a “purse”. If I didn’t know better I’d say she was channelling Queen Elizabeth. OK, all kidding aside, the trousers look terrific and there’s nothing wrong with having four pairs that look the same if they fit well. 🙂

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  2. ellegeemakes says:

    Nice summary of the invisible zipper process – thank you! I really like those pants (trousers?), so much so, I’m wondering why I haven’t made the pair i have cut out on my own sewing table. I have absolutely no idea about how to deal with any fit issues, especially since I’m learning from you! Perhaps, I’ll purchase that course….

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    • Thank you! When you do make the pants, make them with 1 inch seam allowances. Try them on before you are finished, inside out, and pinch the excess out of the seams, and sew it in right there. Or let them out if you have to – you will have the 1 inch to play with. Then turn them the right side out and see if it fits better. Let it in or out a couple of times. You’ll find the right fit. You’ll feel it. It sure helped me! Who knows, perhaps you won’t have fitting problems. Everyone’s shape is different. When it comes to Craftsy courses, I signed up for their emails and they send me notices of sale items. I wait until what I want is on sale. Sooner or later it will be!

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  3. Nice job! And your photos helped create a really useful tutorial. I’ll be inserting my first zipper in decades in the skirt I’m currently cutting out. It is not an invisible one, though. (I don’t think?) And it’s 2″ too long, so that should be fun. And aren’t you having fun, and making some fabulous new pants/trousers in the process! 🙂

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  4. jvandervlugt says:

    Good job! That looks tricky. The pants look great. I also read somewhere that washing pants with the zipper done up and the button buttoned will make that pair of pants last longer. 😊

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  5. For a change you could try a pin tuck down the front and back, following the grain lines. I did this on some of Kelly’s samples but forgot to write a blog about it! It’ll look like what you did on the brown trousers but you don’t have to sew it as separate pieces. I often do this on linen trousers to help keep the shape.

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  6. Looking good! I cheated a bit last year when on my fast and made a few pairs of espresso leggings as quick fix to expand my wardrobe. Even tho I’m not officially fasting now I hardly ever buy rtw 😀

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